A woman is modelling a dress. She is looking at the camera.
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Vintage Fashion

Best of Australian fashion in the 1940s and 1950s

Dior's postwar 'New Look' comes to Australia

Take your front row seat for this collection which illuminates postwar Australia through glorious vintage fashion.

Fashion communicates who we are, and who we want to be. Designer Christian Dior called haute couture 'one of the last repositories of the marvellous'.

The collection features spectacular footage of Christian Dior's 'New Look' when Sydney hosted the first Dior fashion show outside of Paris in 1948.

You'll also see fashion shows on ice, in the air, off the sheep's back, around the schoolyard and rare colour footage from Mark Foy's department store.

Christian Dior fashions bring breath of Paris: Sydney
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Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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In a huge moment for Australian fashion, this was the first time original fashions designed by Christian Dior were seen outside Paris. The garments, including hats and accessories, were flown in ten packing cases to Sydney for David Jones' spring parades in 1948.

Dior enthused 'Australians have a cleaner, brighter outlook and are more receptive to new ideas than the tired people of European countries'.

Dior's first ever collection in 1947 created a post-Second World War style known as the 'New Look' which included tiny 'wasp' waists, accentuated bustlines and a return to a fairytale feminine ideal. Based on the shape of a flower, he used models with 20-inch waists (51 cm) to achieve the silhouette.

The yardage required for Dior's full skirts was a reaction against the austerity of the Great Depression and war rationing. In turn the voluminous look kick-started the fabric industry and the post-war European economy.

These fashions would have been out of reach of the vast majority of Australian women. The year 1948 was significant because it marked the end of clothing rationing, which started in 1942.

Each garment came with its own descriptive language – which we miss out on here because there is no voice-over available for this item. The narration typically highlights unique features, for example the second item is a sheath dress in black wool with a craned collar of black taffeta featuring a wasp waist and hobble skirt.

This newsreel segment comes from Movietone News A0857.

Please note this clip is silent. The NFSA holds the picture negative only for this newsreel rather than the final version, with voice-over narration, that would have screened in cinemas at the time.

Notes by Beth Taylor

French Mannequins present the New Look
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13733
Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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The Australian Woman's Weekly magazine brings together top French and Australian models ('mannequins') with the latest Paris fashions at Sydney's Trocadero nightclub in 1948. Australian model Judy Barraclough features.

The 'New Look' in the title is a reference to Christian Dior's revolutionary post-Second World War fashion collection for Spring-Summer 1947. Upon seeing the collection in Paris, Harper's Bazaar's editor Carmel Snow exclaimed 'Your dresses have such a new look!' – a headline that was used by journalists to refer to the collection's unique silhouettes, lengths, tiny 'wasp' waists, accentuated bust lines and return to a fairytale feminine ideal.

Designers featured here include Elsa Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath, Marie-Louise Carven, Jean Dessès, Edward Molyneux and Marie-Louise Bruyère.

Mary Hordern is the commentator for this newsreel segment which comes from Cinesound Review No 878.

An accompanying newsreel, 'Christian Dior Fashions Bring Breath of Paris: Sydney' (1948), shows the first time a collection of Dior garments had been seen outside of Paris.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Gala French Mannequin Parades at Mark Foy's
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Mark Foy's department store's iconic Liverpool Street store in Sydney, dubbed 'The Piazza', is the setting for this French-themed fashion parade in 1956. The exterior is decorated with French flags and an Eiffel Tower made of lights; gendarmes and French advertisements further set the scene. At the end we see footage of the store exterior at night.

French and Australian mannequins (models) model fashions from French designers represented by Les Trois Hirondelles (The Three Swallows) in this silent footage. Micheline Renault leads a poodle on a leash onto a catwalk.

Other mannequins include Christine Bruchard, Jean Newington and June Massey. The designs have names like Harem, Longchamps, Grand Prix, Magnifique and Mademoiselle.

This is an excerpt from Fashion Parades at Mark Foy’s (1947–56), Film Australia Collection © NFSA.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Bridal Fashion at Mark Foy's
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A series of brides and bridesmaids enter this Mark Foy's fashion parade as if stepping out of a gilt-edge picture frame, before smiling for the camera.

This silent footage, likely from the late 1940s, was filmed at the department store's 'Piazza' building on Liverpool Street in Sydney.

This is an excerpt from Fashion Parades at Mark Foy’s (1947–56), Film Australia Collection © NFSA.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Futuristic styles at hairdressing convention
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A futuristic cone-head hairstyle is a popular style at this convention, as well as multi-coloured hair dyes ranging from dusty green to bright pink.

This film is one of several in a collection of 16mm home movies shot by Newcastle resident Gordon Edwards. He was a camera operator for a local television station, and in this amateur film he documents the hairdressing trends of the 1950s.

The film also features 1950s fashion, make-up, products, and an amusing demonstration with a male client and hairdresser who creates a cone-head piece for him by using coconut as its base. He then adds flora to it to finish it off.

Mark Foy's French Mannequin Parade of 1947
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French mannequins (models) Lydia Leplat, Janine Lequievre, Suzanne Combe and Maggy Sarragne arrive by sea plane at Rose Bay before performing a runway show at Mark Foy’s department store in 1947.

This silent colour footage was shot on 16 mm film at the iconic Liverpool Street store in Sydney.

Famous European design houses featured include: Jacques Fath, Pierre Balmain, Carven, Paquin, Bruyere, Gres, Jean Desses, Schiaparelli, Worth, Molyneux, Marcel Rochas, milliner Maud Roser and a Jeanne Lanvin wedding gown.

The dresses move from daytime pants, swimsuits and dresses to glamorous evening wear. Seeing this parade in colour really brings the 1940s back to life.

Australian models Diana Gregory and Judy Barraclough also feature.

This is an excerpt from Fashion Parades at Mark Foy’s (1947–56), Film Australia Collection © NFSA. Accompanying excerpts show excerpts of Mark Foy's bridal collection circa 1947 and a French-themed fashion parade in 1956.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Australian designers feature cottons
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28795
Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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By 1955, although Europe was still highly influential, the focus had shifted to Australian designers and Australian-made fashion.

This parade, staged at the Tracodero nightclub in Sydney, features cotton fabric fashioned into swimwear, frocks and a bridal gown.

The 'Troc' was an art deco dance hall situated on George Street where Event Cinemas currently stands. Opened in 1936, it remained at the centre of Sydney's nightlife until it closed in 1971.

During the 1950s when this fashion show was filmed, famous visitors to the Troc included Queen Elizabeth II, the Queen Mother, US President Lyndon B Johnson and Prince Charles.

This newsreel segment comes from Cinesound Review No 1240.

Notes by Beth Taylor

'I never took my eyes off you for one moment', 1947
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3AW Melbourne radio comperes Peter Ellis and Judy Willing gush over a 'superb' Paris frock worn by Helen Wiseman at The Stork Club in Melbourne in 1947. They also introduce Stork Club owner Sammy Lee.

The skirt is in the new harem style, decorated with handpainted gold flowers, which Willing remarks she has never seen before. Mrs Wiseman says it is very comfortable to dance in. Willing says to Wiseman, 'You might have thought I was very rude because I never took my eyes off you for one moment'.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Lingerie on ice
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28749
Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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Foundation garments for women were popular in the 1950s, bolstered by the fashion for Dior's wasp waists and an exaggerated feminine silhouette.

'Girl's Best Friend: Foundation Garments Modelled on Ice Rink' is a prime example of a marketing focus on the freedom of movement these modern garments offer when compared with previous types of corsetry.

Other examples include Berlei's golfing and dancing sarong girdles.

The newsreel segment comes from Cinesound Review No. 1198.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Tour of Fashion Departments at McKinlay's Store, 1946
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An excerpt from a radio tour around the women's fashion department at McKinlay's Store in Launceston, Tasmania in 1946.

In this short segment announcer Mrs Margot Parker, president of the 7EX radio station's Women's Association, talks with Miss Bradbury about the frocks, coats, jumpers and suits on offer in the store.

This was recorded in 1946, shortly after the end of the Second World War. Clothing was rationed from 1942 to 1948 in Australia, with each adult receiving 112 coupons per year.

To get an idea of what this would buy, one of the linen suits Miss Bradbury describes cost 13 coupons. Segments like this were an important avenue for stores to promote their wares.

The cover image is a still from The Melbourne Wedding Belle (1953). © Film Australia Collection, NFSA.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Paris Models Make Australian Debut
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50320
Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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It is a year after the end of the Second World War and Australians are hungry for the romance and elegance of French fashion.

Four French mannequins (models) are flown out from Paris for the show. Designers include Marcel Rochas and the House of Patou.

This comes just one year before Christian Dior's 'New Look' changed fashion forever.

Owning one of these couture garments would have been an unaffordable fantasy for the vast majority of women. In addition, clothing rationing was in effect in Australia from 1942 to 1948.

This newsreel segment comes from Cinesound Review No. 0777.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Wedding Bells
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28840
Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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'Every girl dreams of a wedding gown ... as every man knows', begins the voice-over in this newsreel segment from 1956.

Wedding dresses by Australian designers are modelled by June Massey, Diana Andrews and others at Kara - Sydney's latest bridal and debutante salon.

This newsreel segment 'Wedding Bells: Latest Creations For the Bride' comes from Cinesound Review No. 1287.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Schoolgirls model frocks they make
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50248
Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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Students from Parramatta Central Home Science High School in Sydney model dresses they have made. The designs are inspired by French fashion.

The voice-over narration reflects a narrow view of the expected roles for Australian women in the 1950s, with comments that seem bizarre by today's standards.

This newsreel segment 'Home Science: Schoolgirls Model Frocks They Make' comes from Cinesound Review No. 1131.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Beach Inspectors' 'Battle of Bikinis'
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28783
Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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Models show the latest swimming costume fashions at the first annual beach inspectors' dinner in 1955.

Stan 'Mac' McDonald, head lifeguard and beach inspector at Bondi Beach from the 1910s to 1933, features in this newsreel segment. He was known as the 'King of Bondi'.

The commentary in this clip is laced with innuendo; at one point, the narrator likens swimsuit models to 'dishes on the menu'. The clip also references the practice of beach inspectors ordering bikini-clad women off the beach.

Bikinis were invented by French engineer Louis Reard in 1945. The style caused a big stir when it was first worn in Australia by 22-year-old showgirl Patricia Niland in Sydney's George Street several months later.

This newsreel segment comes from Cinesound Review No 1227.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Royal Sydney Sheep Show – wool fashions
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12771
Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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The highlight of this newsreel segment about Australian sheep is a model in woollen clothing walking down the catwalk with a huge ram by her side. Woollen garments shown include dresses, coats, evening wear and even a wedding dress.

Freight planes bring sheep from the town of Hay to the Sydney Showground for the 1951 Royal Sydney Sheep Show. FO Gobbert wins the Stonehaven Cup in the merino section.

The commentator references Australia riding the 'high road to prosperity on the sheep's back' and producing a quarter of the world's wool.

This newsreel segment 'Aristocrats at Royal Sydney Sheep Show' comes from Cinesound Review No 1026.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Fashion Show 15,000 Feet Up
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60722
Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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The first aerial fashion show held on a TAA flight between Perth and Sydney.

Newsreel segments like this one – shown before movies in Australian cinemas – would have been an important way for fashion brands to market themselves to the public.

This newsreel segment 'Fashion Show – 15,000 Feet Up' is from Cinesound Review No. 1463.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Paris Comes to Sydney
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4729
Courtesy:
Cinesound Movietone Productions
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'Paris Comes to Sydney: Lavish French Exhibition at Royal Show' shows Australian enthusiasm for all things French at the Royal Easter Show in Sydney in 1956.

Prime Minister Robert Menzies opens the exhibition which includes French fabrics, glassware, fashions, Peugeot and Citroën cars, homewares and furniture valued at a total of £1 million.

This newsreel segment comes from Cinesound Review No 1273.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Three-Way Hat is Novel Fashion
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Ex-serviceman and milliner John Pickworth of Hunters Hill, Sydney shows his creation – a hat that can be worn three ways.

The hat is made from wool georgette.

This is an excerpt from Australian Diary 39, 1950, Film Australia Collection © NFSA.

The Melbourne Wedding Belle
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This tourist promotional film for Melbourne was made as it geared up for the staging of the 1956 Olympic Games.

Produced by the National Film Board in 1953, it is framed around an impending wedding. It shows various members of the family rushing around Melbourne gathering what they need in order to attend the big event.

This is a rare example of Ferraniacolor – a type of colour film developed in Italy – which was used sparingly in Australia before the 'Eastman revolution'.

From the Film Australia Collection © NFSA.

Notes by Beth Taylor

Dancing Sarong
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51224
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A woman in a dress dances to cocktail music as a female voice-over explains the features of the ‘Sarong’ girdle the woman is wearing beneath her clothes. The action freezes as the camera zooms in and ‘sees through’ the woman’s outer clothing to reveal the girdle and how comfortable, flexible and flattering it is.

Summary by Poppy de Souza.